THE WORDS AND SENTIMENTS OF DAVID HEELEY - BROADCASTER | FOOD CRITIC | TRAVEL WRITER
Help me battle to resurrect old favourites

Food Critic

Help me battle to resurrect old favourites

Having recently given a talk to a group restaurateurs in Palma, Mallorca, I was accosted afterwards by a British lady who said that my speech had been “absolutely superfluous” (sic) would it be published locally, she wondered? I told her it would – but only posthumously.  “I can’t wait” she replied. Well, with fans such as this it’s at least nice to know that my articles have a truly international reach because it was whilst waiting for my return flight to Blackpool International Airport – surely an oxymoron – that I chanced upon my GP, Dr Evans. “David”, he said, [Read More]

» Read other articles like this

Seasonality

Food Critic

Seasonality

Just as important as provenance, seasonality is something thankfully we’re all now seeing return to an increasing number of menus.  Just as we reach the end of asparagus season – no asparagus should be cut after the 21st June – we enter into the season of the sadly little known samphire. This glorious edible seaweed has long been considered a local delicacy around the coast of Lytham where I live, as well as across the estuary in Banks and Southport.  From late June until mid to late September this tasty crop, also sometimes called “poor mans asparagus” is available and [Read More]

» Read other articles like this

Where are you coming from?

Food Critic

Where are you coming from?

On my regular BBC Radio Manchester slot with presenter Matt White, I’m often to be heard bleating on about the importance of provenance.  Few things are more important when dining, than knowing that – where possible – the ingredients you consume have been grown or reared locally.  One such arch advocate of this particular school of parochialism is previous Michelin starred chef Warrick Dodds, now at the Hastings in Lytham (www.hastingslytham.com). Warrick said “Having grown up and trained in this area, I know what a true storehouse of quality we have here, not only in Lancashire but in particular the [Read More]

» Read other articles like this

The next big thing in cooking? – sound!

Food Critic

The next big thing in cooking? – sound!

Well, according to the sainted Heston Blumenthal at least. He explained to me recently, “I’ve long been fascinated by experiments that show that sound can have as profound an effect on the eating experience as the other senses, often at a physical level of which we’re barely aware.  I was once asked by a food scientist to try to chew gum whilst listening to crunching sounds on headphones.  It turned out to be an almost impossible task”. Heston’s latest innovation is to introduce a “sound” course on his tasting menu with a dish called “Sound of the sea”, in which [Read More]

» Read other articles like this

Revenge of the rosbifs

Personal Preference

Revenge of the rosbifs

In his splendidly titled new book “1000 years of annoying the French”, author Stephen Clarke recounts a whole host of little known facts.  Amongst them, if it weren’t for the English, Champagne would be flat.  The 17th Century vintner–monk Dom Perignon was trying to eradicate the un-planned fizz, when he learnt that bubbles were all the range in London and changed his tune.  It’s a piece of history the French have erased, as is the fact that British troops taught them how to cook steak – by pointing out that you can’t properly brown meat whilst it’s wet. My advice, [Read More]

» Read other articles like this

Meals on wheels

Personal Preference

Meals on wheels

Chefs? I’ve known a few.  A few thousand actually.  They’ve been described as either “mad, bad or sad” and whilst I can think of many for each of those categories I’ve also known some lovely ones too.  However, which of the above categories you’d place chef Peter Wallner in – I’ll leave you to decide. He admitted manslaughter at the Old Bailey recently having kept his dead wife’s body in a freezer for over three years – before disposing of it in a wheelie bin.  Let’s be thankful that outlandish occurrences like that almost never occur hear in Lancashire. Did [Read More]

» Read other articles like this